you will need to pull the #1 spark plug to find TDC and please don't crank the motor with the tool installed. you will have to ask autozone which cam position sensor part number is for your truck and they will know which color adapter to use. you may have spark but no injector pulse when this happens. there have been instances of the roll pin shearing when the oil pump locked up. you may want to use one of these loan a tools to verify the cam sensor housing/distributor housing is in sync with the crank. it can allow you to vary the gap to check the oil output. from the cap to the spark plug wire ends. do you have spark from the coil to the cap. you probably don't have a fuel pump issue. the hose shown above the one with the gauge attached is the proper size for ford schrader valves with the recessed valve core to stop one from using a tire gauge on it.ĭo you still have the old fuel pump relay. $24 relay, and truck fired up right away. What are your guys suggestions? Is there anything else I can check (cheaply, I'm a broke grad student), to try and diagnose the problem? or.am I destined to make my way to the mechanic and start stocking up on ramen for the next couple months?įixed!!!! It turns out my PCM relay was blown and that was it. Voltage at Inertia switch/relays/wires and spark plugs What I haven't been able to check (dont have the tools): I dont have $250 at the moment to loan out the fuel pressure gauge from autozone, but the shrader valve shoots fuel pretty good when you press it down Checked/tripped then untripped Inertia Switch Switched around Fuel Pump Relay to one I know works Replaced corroded battery terminal connections This kept getting worse and worse and now it will crank over just fine, but wont start no matter what.
Over the past 2 months it would occasionally just not start(crank and sound perfectly normal, but wouldn't start), then, with a jump it would fire up immediately. Hey all, I have a 99 Ford Ranger 3.0 flex fuel with 130,000 miles.
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